| Posted: 07 January 2010 at 1:11pm | IP Logged
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Tanners have used BCS (ordinary tanning chrome salt) as an inexpensive dyeing auxiliary that initially helps to level-out and penetrate the dyestuff because of anionic chrome complexes formed initially as the excess of sulfate ion in the coördination sphere of chromium make anionic complexes that screen-out cationic aminos from picking up the anionic dyestuff, because chrome tanning salt has because of its manufacturing, about a third of its weight in Glaubber's salt. It is sulfate as a Hofmeister anionic protein coagulating (and thus weakly tanning!) ion that "screens-out" or "masks" anionic aminos from reacting. The formation of chrome anionic complexes by excess sulfate anion is important as well in modern tannage procedures. If the float is low and relatively cool, the dyestuff anionic colored radicals will agregate colloidially such as detergents do, because of their very anionic sulphonate ends orients the molecules into water micelles, that are destroyed by heat and and low ionic strenght caused dilution, such as detergent-water micelles are. After the desired dye pentration in a cold, relatively neutral, higher ionic stenght bath in the presence of anionic chrome complexes, then and only then, a very hot, large volume, of acid laden water is added to increase astringency between dye and collagen, dilute the dye-water micelles below their CMC value, and beguin the process of removing anionic sulfates out of the coördination sphere of chrome as less anionic carboxylic funtions in collagen replace them, thus generating tanning enabled cationic chrome complexes that can react with saline links, decoupling them, to further create cationic amino groupings on collagen that are highly reactive to dyestuffs. This process takes time and higher temperatures, but can yield excellently dyed two step nubouks with out expensive cationic dyeing auxiliaries as well as provide for chrome retannage of the proper crust after effective buffing favored by low chrome contents. In fact one can have a very low chrome colorless crust, easily dyed in any color to highly brilliant shades because of the cationic chrome retannage in the dyeing process!
Part of the problem in applying this concept is changing the tanner's prejudice of what chemicals need to be used in tannage and which in retannage! The truth is that there is an administrative, not an absolute chemical reason, for adding certain chemicals in tannage or retannage that shapes our leather processing logic. True, why add more chemicals to what will become shavings anyway! But if the shavings are easier to biodegrade, why chrometan to boil-proof if we can later get this property without wasting expensive and effluent problematic chemicals such as chrome? The wet-white concept really was this but has really failed to be greatly addopted.
Edited by DavidR on 07 January 2010 at 1:17pm
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